France Trip 2019

Last modified: February 3, 2021

Saint-Laurent-de-la-Salanque

This is the little village where we stayed.  We flew in and out of Barcelona and St Laurent is a 2 hour drive.

Map of France highlighting Saint-Laurent-de-la-Salanque region.

Car dashboard with GPS navigation system.

The road into town under a canopy of trees.  But, no trees on the road out of town!

Chateau 7

Two women enjoying a meal together on an outdoor patio.

Table setting with various cheeses, breads, wine, and snacks on a red and white patterned floor.

Typical dinner of fromage and charcuterie on fresh baguette...

A bustling street scene with old and new architecture, people walking along the sidewalk.

Farmer's Market is just down the street...

Hand holding a bottle of L'Heritier-Guyot Cassis Noir de Bourgogne wine.

The good Creme de Cassis, which I haven't yet been able to find here in the US even via Internet...

Female presenter standing next to a weather map of France on a TV screen.

Weather was good.  Slightly warmer than Santa Cruz (especially at night), but similar...

Living room scene with TV stand, shelves, microwave, and household items on a beige background.

Cluttered room with white couch, wooden staircase, laptop, and miscellaneous objects.

Breakfast and morning email: cuppa Joe (or Tea for Vero) and baguette with butter and jam...

A yellow table with food items, including bread slices, pickles, olives, and glasses of beverage.

Foix Gras, fig bread (or was it date), and a nicely decanted bottle of 1990 Chateau d'YQuem that we liberated from our US collection and returned to France...

Oysters by the Sea

Weathered wooden building with blue awning and red sign "Allary".

The big salt lake nearby is for oyster farming.  There's a row of little restaurants that serve nothing but oysters right on the shore...

A restaurant kitchen with a person at the counter holding a glass of wine.

Love the ice "bucket".  In the background, one of several oyster thanks.  Very fresh!

A woman enjoying oysters and shrimp at a table.

Vero having oysters and Rose...

The Beach and the Singing Langostino in Barcares

Barcares is an interesting little village near St Laurent.  It was almost desserted when we were there.  It's primary purpose is so people can take their summer holiday (mandatory 6 weeks!) there.  Tons of rentals and trailer parks (called "Campgrounds").  Many of the larger trailer parks had amusements, such as water parks.  Looked like fun, but desserted.  OTOH, things get crazy traffic and crowd-wise in the high season.

Beach landscape with waves and people in the distance under a gray sky.

Here we are at the beach.  The waves are big, like a good surfing day in Santa Cruz.  That's unusual here, but there had been a storm...

A desolate parking lot under an overcast sky with palm trees and distant buildings.

Spin 180 degrees and there's the village.  Our destination is a little restaurant called the "Singing Langostino".  It's in among that central clump of palm trees.

Group of people gathered under palm trees with parked cars in the background.

We were a bit early to be seated so we watched a friendly Patanque tournament.  It's French Bocci Ball.

Red sign with yellow background, featuring French text "LA LANGOUSTE QUI CHANTE" and Nestle's La Laitiere logo.

Voila!  The Singing Langostino.  I was so excited to go in I didn't frame this very well...

Two large prawns on a plate with fries and lemon, garnished with condiment packaging.

I ordered jumbo shrimp ("Gampas") and frites ("French Fries).  I had no idea they would be so big or that there would be so many.  Only 10 Euro = $11!

Two people at a table eating mussels in white sauce with bread and fries.

Muscles Carbonara, Frites, and Goat Cheese Salad at the Singing Langostino.  This was so good we went back a second time just to have it!

Grilled fish, shrimp, and squid with parsley and lemon.

Seafood Mixed Grill:  Jumbo shrimp, gigantic scallop, and grilled fish...

Two people on stage, man in suit, woman in black top, holding microphones, amidst a lively audience.

The duo of singers who entertained us were excellent.  Mostly French pop songs, and they really got the audience dancing.  We wouldn't have gotten in if we hadn't gone early.

Concert posters with Madison event details.

An Epic French Grocery Store

The day we arrived it was time to stock up the fridge, so we went to a nearby French grocery store.  And it blew my mind.

Yellow and red cow statue in grocery store display case surrounded by food products and a "VINS CATALANS" shield.

Lest we forget, Catalan spans part of both France and Spain.  Here are some Catalan products along with their flag...

A photograph of a store sign for "Le Charcutier".

If you like Charcuterie (what we call "Cold Cuts"), prepare for a religious experience...

Cured meats such as salami and prosciutto displayed in a glass case under good lighting.

This is just part of the Pate and Foix Gras available!

Refrigerated grocery case stocked with meats and prepared foods.

Still more pate...

Meat display case with assorted sausages and meats.

Sausage: at least two full cases like this...

Cured meats in a glass display case.

Ham, oh my!

Person browsing refrigerated glass case in grocery store or deli with assorted prepared foods and sandwiches.

Sardines and other delicacies...

Packaged meats shelved in a refrigerated grocery store case.

Choucroute Garnie, already made?!??  Wow!

French-style cheeses in a refrigerated display case.

Gougeres: French cream puffs we first tried in New Orleans.  We've made them, they're not too hard, but ready made is such a luxury.  These are all nifty canapes should you be entertaining...

Cured meats on display in a store setting, packaged with red designs and price tags.

Need to buy a whole ham?  No problem...

A person in a blue Hawaiian shirt stands next to a blue shopping cart with wine bottles, on a store's tiled floor.

Thoughtful compartment in the shopping cart prevents your wine from falling over...

Supermarket aisle with rows of wine bottles on clean white-tiled floor.

Speaking of wine, this is just the Rose section, and there was about the same amount of other wine behind me when I took the picture.  I counted 4 walls of wine like this.  Most wines were in the $3 to $10 range and were fantastic!

Grocery store shelf stocked with packaged food items.

Took this photo for our friend, Jaime, who loves peanut butter and tacos.  Only small jars of Skippy, and oddly, they're in the British, not the American section, LOL!

The First Wine Tasting and Castle of Many

At the foot of the famous Salse fortress is one of four tasting rooms for Arnaud de Villeneuve winery.

Woman posing in front of brick wall wearing purple shirt and black pants with short brown hair.

People gathered at a casual bar in a restaurant or pub.

Their lovely little tasting room.  Most tastings are free in France, and you can try as many as you like.  Wineries often make a LOT of different wines!

Wine and liquor bottles on wooden shelves against a white background.

A small sampling of their lovely wines.  They were all quite good.  Their Muscat de Rivesaltes has one a Top 10 award in the region and was very tasty, but inexpensive.  It's 7 Euro a bottle (not quite $8)!

These inexpensive Muscats score 89 points by the wine critics.  They are so good on a hot afternoon with cheese.  Such a pity they're hard to get over here!

People walking on a road near parked cars in an urban/suburban setting.

Before long we are off to the Fort de Salse, which is literally right behind the winery.

Ancient stone castle with tall walls, towers, and lush garden.

Large stone building with arches and columns, possibly a castle or fortification.

Ville de Collioure

A parking lot scene with cars, trucks, RVs, and mountains in the background.

Castle overlooking Ville de Collioure...

Small town street scene with diverse buildings, beige stucco, blue shutters, green curtains, and a motorcycle.

Bustling city street with pedestrians and trees-lined sidewalk.

About to enter the village...

Bustling street scene with old and new buildings, pedestrians, and a sign reading "SNACK BAR" in French.

Two women stand on a stone dock overlooking a harbor with boats and surrounding buildings.

Coastal town with stone waterfront and tower.

Small church with cross on rocky coast overlooking ocean.

A rocky coastline with a church perched on top, overlooking the ocean.

Stylized clock tower sign on stone wall with lush greenery and outdoor seating.

Two people sitting at an outdoor restaurant table overlooking water with mountain scenery in the background.

Tan stone building with tower and smaller structure.

Rocky shoreline with calm sea and building on cliffside.

Narrow European street with colorful balconies and shutters under a blue sky.

Serene beach scene with stone wall and lighthouse.

The beach!  French Special Forces had 2 groups of scuba divers training right here a little later.  I didn't take their picture, didn't want to annoy, LOL.

Also nearby is the sidewalk cafe where I first tried Perrier with mint syrup at Vero's suggestion.  Very refreshing!

Scenic coastal town with buildings and harbor.

View high above the village...

Colorful illustration of wine bottles and glasses on a machining website.

We had a lovely wine tasting right next to that view above the village...

Large sculpture with French writing, set against a tree-lined background and clear blue sky.

Degustation means "tasting", as in "wine tasting"...

Rocky coastline with small village and ocean at sunset.

Also visible from the wine tasting spot was this lovely dream house with fabulous views...

Serene coastal landscape with hillside, sea, island, and blue sky with wispy clouds.

Vineyards all along the coast, and a sphinx-like rock...

Large rock formation rising from dark blue ocean/sea with light-colored, rough surface.

Closer look at the sphinx...

Off to Perpignon so Vero can do some Business

Fromagerie storefront with gold lettered sign on blue background.

First thing we saw emerging from the parking garage under the main square was this lovely little Fromagerie...

Woman standing in front of a glass case with jars, behind a brick wall.

Vibrant city square scene featuring buildings, food truck, and outdoor seating.

View of the square...

A crowd of people gathered in a European city street, with individuals holding red flags or banners.

Before long we were caught up in a little demonstration march.  This was about raising the retirement age (for pension) of certain gov't workers.  It was peaceful and they were singing songs...

Medieval-style brick wall with archway and Porte Notre Dame sign.

In the center of Perpignon is a walled city (the square is inside).  Here is one of the gates.  Most of the walled cities are not so well preserved.  As soon as the defenses were rendered obsolete (by gunpowder), they were often torn down so the bricks could be reused for other structures.

Narrow alleyway with tall, dark brown door and people walking.

Something intriguing to discover down there, ladies?

Decorative stone plaque with diamond-shaped center featuring circular design, text, and gold accents.

Founded in the 12th century...

An old stone building with a wooden ceiling and arched window featuring "Liberte egalite fraternite" etched into the wall.

This is the old City Hall, which is referred to as a "Hotel" for some reason...

Couple embracing and smiling at an outdoor restaurant table.

Passing time with wine and good friends...

Middle-aged couple sits together under an umbrella on a city street.

Table with coffee, eclairs, and wine.

A lot of restaurants have a prix fixe menu choice.  That was about the only time we got dessert.

Miniature figurines from Warhammer Age of Sigmar game on a table behind glass.

Shops were less touristy in Perpignan.  Here are miniatures for our Dungeonmaster, Laura...

Historic church steeple with clock tower and wrought iron spire.

I thought this a clever bell tower...

Narrow urban street with white van, cobblestone pavement, tall buildings, and people walking.

I think we're off the beaten path...

Bustling city street scene with old and new architecture

Yes, Bob is cool in France...

Comprehensive online resource for machine shops, metal fabrication, and CNC machining expertise.

A Winery with Flamingos in Paradise

This amazing winery is all by itself on one side of a large nature preserve with a large lake and ponds.  Yes, there are flamingos that come there.  They are a different species than Florida Flamingos, and paler pink.  But very similar.

Two decorative flamingos on a barrel near a white van and a building with a tiled roof.

Wire sculpture bird next to black-and-white photo of man with orange-labeled bottle, French text.

"I never abuse alcohol-it always consents" Pictured is the Belgian owner.  Nice life!

Lush green grapevines near a body of water.

Vineyards and Mediterranean Sea...

Landscape photograph of a serene lake surrounded by trees under a cloudy sky with calm water reflecting the blue sky above.

This is the lake.  We saw flamingos in a nearby pond, but too far away to photograph...

A serene hilltop landscape with an old stone building, lush greenery, and blue skies.

Yet another cute village above the road into the lake...

The Scenic Route to Carcaissane: Views, Good Food, and a Wine Tasting

We took the scenic route through the mountains along a narrow winding road that followed a gorge.  Great scenery and intriguing little villages along the way.

Medieval castle on mountain with old buildings and chimneys in foreground.

The castle overlooking this village is rather forbidding...

White line drawing mountain range with "Puilaurens-Laguivadelle" sign.

It is the Château de Puilaurens and the village is Lapradelle Puilaurens.

Majestic mountain landscape with castle on rugged peak.

A white mansion with a gray roof, surrounded by lush green trees and tall evergreen trees.

Vero spotted this lovely little house while we were trying to get a better look at the castle...

A serene natural setting with lush greenery, river, trees, bush, dirt road, and large rock formation.

This is the river whose course we will follow.  It's pretty small here.  As we gain altitude it gets bigger and faster moving.

People standing in a small town square surrounded by buildings and parked cars.

We stopped for lunch in yet another little village called Limoux along our route.

Serene European-style town square with stone-paved area, buildings, trees, and a statue of a man on horseback.

Ornate fountain with central statue of woman surrounded by child statues in European town square.

Beautiful little fountain in the square.  Having lunch there at the red awning...

Red leather booths and ornate mirrors in a restaurant interior.

It's essentially a diner, but with French food and decorations...

Clear glass castle-shaped candle holder with lit tea lights on a wooden table, red leather booth in background.

Nifty gadget to keep your fricasse warm

A man's arm in a blue shirt serves two brown ceramic bowls on a wooden table.

And here is the fricasse.  It's a close relative of Cassoulet...

Person's lap with partially eaten burger, fries, and salad.

I finally broke down and ordered a hamburger.  It was so good!  Cheese & confit onions, that great bun (the French know bread), perfect frites, and the salad on the side.  The burger was not so large (perfect size, actually) as we often do for fancy burgers.  And the beef was excellent.  Not as lean as our beef, so lots of great juice.

Narrow street in old town with cloudy gray sky.

Time to say goodbye to this little village and continue our journey...

A large tan building with multiple windows and a fence in front, set against a blue sky with white clouds.

From the parking lot, the square where we ate was just to the left of the church spire.  Yes, we walked a lot in Europe.  Good fo' ya'!

A photograph of Antech Limoux building with people walking toward the entrance.

Antech makes wonderful sparkling wine on the outskirts of Limoux.  BTW, wine historians claim the first sparkling wines were made in this area in 1531, by the monks at the abbey in Saint-Hilaire, Aude.  We had heard a monk named Dom Perignon invented the stuff, but then that story, a common myth, was told to us by the VP of North America for Dom Perignon, LOL.  Doesn't Antech seem like it ought to be a high tech company?  BTW, this company has been going for 5 generations and is run by the women in the family.

Wine tasting display with sign reading Antech Limoux

They have a gorgeous little tasting room.  We were the only ones there, but they summoned an English-speaker to deliver the tasting for our benefit.  There were 3 of these little displays, plus the little tasting bar.  Pretty much every winery we visited had a greater variety of wines than the average US/California winery would.  They've been at it a long time, and the French palette seems a bit more varied than the American.

Carcaissane: Walled City

Lush green landscape with trees and bushes in the background, blue cloudy sky and a car's roof visible

We pulled over when we caught our first glimpse of Carcaissane.  You can just see a tall tower in the center of the photo.  Of course there is a vineyard.  So many vineyards in South of France!

Medieval castle with towered walls atop a hill surrounded by trees and vines.

Medieval-style castle with stone walls, towers, and a gatehouse, set against a rural backdrop.

Two brown horses with white headpieces stand next to a stone wall on a gravel path.

Hello friends!  Nice hats!

Serene outdoor setting with stone walls and lush greenery.

Many beautiful little spots and eateries inside the walled city...

Rustic stone building with wooden door and sign reading Adelaide Restaurant.

Originally, the plan was to have a Cassoulet dinner after touring the extensive grounds.  Adelaide supposedly has the best Cassoulet in the region (which invented the dish).  Confession time: we were so stuffed from lunch we just couldn't do it.  So we missed out!

Medieval fortress with stone walls and towers.

There was a charge to visit the inner walled area, and we skipped that.  What's outside that is still hours of exploration.

Old stone building with arched windows and tower against blue sky.

The grounds are large with many eateries, shops, and even hotels and apartments.

An elderly woman in a stone-walled courtyard, gazing out at cityscape.

Blonde woman standing against a stone wall wearing a blue shirt and black sunglasses.

Stone building covered in lush green ivy.

Super swanky little hotel right next to the church.  It's a 5-star premium property for Sofitel.  Wonder what it's like?

Majestic stone cathedral with tall tower and intricate architecture.

Historic stone church with arched window and intricate carvings.

Historic cobblestone town square with old stone buildings and pedestrians walking in warm sunlight.

Grand stone cathedral with soaring ceilings and stained glass windows.

Church interior with white stone walls and vaulted ceilings, featuring wooden pews and stained glass windows.

Another Tasting on the Way Home from Carcaissane

Two dark glass wine bottles on a wooden table in front of a stone wall, with illustrations on their labels.

Industrial storage room with metal tanks and wooden barrels, person on ladder in background.

The Dali Museum in Figueres, Spain

Large stone archway with ornate mosaic mural of a bearded man's face.

Abraham Lincoln?  (Squint if you don't see him)

Or...

Large stone building with arched doorway and abstract pixelated painting on wall with red border. Two people walk towards the camera.

Dali's wife, Gala in the nude...

[ More pix coming soon! ]

Masterpiece: Segrada Familia

Perhaps the most amazing and beautiful architecture I have ever seen.  It's not finished and has been under construction for 100 years.  But they are close!

Intricate architecture of Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona, Spain

Gray stone building under construction with scaffolding and cranes.

The other facades are finished, this is what's left...

Intricate stone carvings on Sagrada Familia cathedral.

Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain with crowd.

Renowned Barcelona cathedral La Sagrada Familia exterior.

Large stone building with intricate carvings and sculptures on facade.

Group of people gathered in front of a stone wall with inscription, set against a tree and building backdrop.

Just look at the detail on the door.  No CNC, all carved by hand!

Large stone building with vibrant stained glass windows.

Stained glass is cool colors on one side, warm on the other...

Towering columns and stained glass windows in a colorful public interior space.

How's that for a light show?

Large ornate cathedral with stone/marble columns, stained glass windows, and polished stone floor.

Stairway to Heaven?

Grand building interior with stained glass windows, intricate carvings, and a polished stone floor.

Grand ornate building interior with high ceiling, pillars, spiral staircase, balconies, and intricate carvings.

Tall ceilings, stained glass windows, stone carvings, and polished marble interior at La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain.

Vibrant stained glass window in a stone-walled room.

Gaudi Museum and Barcelona

[ Pix coming soon! ]

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