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CNC Lathe: Mounting Step Motors
I picked up 5 210 oz in
Pacific Scientific step motors from eBay (I love eBay!) for $34. These
should be perfect for driving the leadscrew and cross slide:
 
Pacific Scientific 210 oz in NEMA 23 Stepper Motors...
The motors
have 1/4" shafts with a flat for setscrews, and no encoders.
Mounting the Steppers
to the Shafts
Given the size of my lathe
and the 210 oz in rating of these motors, my intent is to direct drive.
I don't need the torque multiplication of gears or timing belts, and the
simplicity of direct drive appeals to me. Here are the shaft dimensions:

Lathemaster 9x30 Shaft Dimensions...
Since I am
direct driving, a simple Helical Beam Coupler will suffice to connect
the motor to the shaft:

Helical Beam Coupler...
These little
guys take care of slight inaccuracies between the two shafts without introducing
any backlash. In exchange you must give McMaster Carr or some similar
organization almost $30 apiece. They can be had with different bore sizes
on each end, which is perfect since the steppers are 1/4" shafts,
the cross slide is 15/32" (!!! or maybe 12mm, hard to say), and the
leadscrew is 5/8". So, we need the following:
Leadscrew: McMaster Carr
6208K14, $27.58. 1 1/2" OD, 2 3/8" OL, 1/4" to 5/8"
Cross Slide: McMaster Carr
6208K8, $24.96. 1 1/4" OD, 1 1/4" OL, 1/4" to 7/16"
Since the cross
slide is such an oddball size, I will have to bore the coupler slightly
as the off-the-shelf part is slightly undersized. Given these couplers,
I will then fabricate the normal mounting plate with spacers arrangement.
The NEMA 23 square plates on the motors will be bolted to spacers, which
will in turn be bolted to a plate that is bolted to the lathe:

Generalized Direct Drive Step Motor Mounting Arrangement...
Once all is
running well, I will want to fabricate some sheet metal covers to protect
the couplers from flying chips, keep fingers out, and generally make the
installation a little neater.
Hold the
Presses: CNC Machined NEMA 23 Mounts
I found these
NEMA 23 motor mounts on eBay for $25 and couldn't resist. They are so
much nicer than using two plates with spacers. By positioning the hole on the bottom, the helical beam coupler and shafts
are protected from flying chips or coolant.

X-Axis
(Leadscrew)
I'm thinking
of using the existing banjo mounting shaft that the change gears use.
The change gears just use a pinch collar arrangement around this shaft:

Banjo Pinch Collar...

Mounting Plate Will Attach to Banjo Mounting Shaft...
In the photo
above I call out two potential holes that would tie the plate to the lathe
bed (circles with "?" in them). I decided not to use those holes
in favor of the method shown in this drawing below:

Attachment to Banjo Shaft...
I did not thread
into the banjo mounting shaft. Instead, I just used 2 set screws at 90
degrees. It was an easy couple of hours to fabricate the Z-axis mount:

You can see the mounting plate here. My brother
is threading for one of 2 set screws...

Here's what it looks like on the lathe. Very sanitary,
no? It's on there to stay as well!
Z-Axis
(Cross Slide)
There are a
lot fewer options for the cross slide unless I want to do some major fabrication
(no thank you!). I'm looking at using the existing bolts that hold the
piece with the handwheel dial pointer engraving:

Likely X-Axis Mounting Holes...
So,
I will build a square plate with holes for the shaft, 3 mounting bolts
to the lathe, plus the 4 NEMA-spec mounts for the motor spacers. BTW,
they're hard to see in the picture, but there's a nice little thrust bearing
on the shaft underneath the round piece as well as the one that's visible
on the shaft. Together, I'm sure they contribute to the nice handwheel
feel on these Lathemasters compared to cheaper Asian lathes as well as
getting rid of backlash due to axial movement of the leadscrew. Here is
a cutaway view of how it will all work:
.
The mounting
plate captivates the first thrust bearing as well as providing the attachment
to the cross slide base via the 3 allen head bolts. The leadscrew shaft
protrudes through this plate, and there is a shaft adapter. Since the
leadscrew is bored and tapped, the shaft adapter serves two functions.
First, it reduces shaft diameter to better fit our helical beam coupler.
Second, the adapter presses against the thrust bearing so that by tightening
the axial allen head threaded into the leadscrew against the adapter we
take up any axial play in the leadscrew. You can see the shaft adapter
a little more clearly if we take away the CNC Bracket/Motor Mount:

That red disk between the
shaft adapter and the mounting plate is one of the thrust bearings.
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