Tips & Techniques
are my notes on various techniques that are specific to CNC, but not necessarily
a particular type of machine. They are to date a rather disorganized collection
of anecdotes found elsewhere. Over time I will organize these and test
each one, discarding those that don't work so well and emphasizing those
that do. For now, I am using a font convention to differentiate the tips:
If I have written a tip
in this font, I have personally verified it.
If it is written like this, I found it on the Internet and am awaiting
verification. These are the ones to take with a grain of salt.
If you want machine specific
tips not related to CNC (i.e. applicable to CNC or manual machining),
there are several pages for the lathe
Have A CNC Mill and Some G-Code, What Next?
First, see my tip below
about starting out with just 2 axes.
If you want to plunge in,
here is a rough play by play for how it should go in 3 axes. When you
draw your part in your cad system, you should place one corner of it so
that the top of that corner is at X0Y0Z0. This is the datum, or reference
point for that part, and is called Work
When you power up your machine
and it homes, all the axis are in certain positions which the machine
calls home, and typically these would all be zero, or they might be assigned
particular values. This location is called Machine Zero, or just the Home
Position. Often the home position will be the position where the machine
can access the toolchanger if there is one, or perhaps it will be the
maximum positive values for all axes. A switch is often located there
so the machine can positively find it again.
Clamp your stock down on
the table. You want to reconcile the origin of the stock relative to the
machine zero. So, pick a corner of your stock and say, "This is my
datum point or Work Zero". This should correspond with the position
of your stock in the cad screen. Through a series of jog movements, and
use of an edge finder (precise method) or a sharp point held in the spindle
(crude method) you move the spindle to where the Work Zero datum on the
stock lies. At this time, the machine's axis displays show your jog amounts
from machine zero, so these X and Y values are entered into your G54 work
offset. These values represent how far the datum on the part is from the
machine zero. There is no need to enter a Z G54 work offset at this time,
because the tools have not been loaded as you are just working with an
edge finder or point probe.
Now, load the tool and jog
in Z from machine home down to the top of the part. Whatever this distance
is, you could use for your tool length offset for that tool (see below
for more info on tool length offsets!). All the tools could be measured
in this manner. Thus, because the tool length offset sets all the tools
to the same Z level, you are done, there is nothing to set in the Z G54
work offset, which should be zero.
Your program needs a T1
M6 command to load a tool from the toolchanger and an G43 H1 command to
load the length offset for that tool. It is simplist if you use H1 with
T1, H2 with T2. Even if you do not have a toolchanger, the T number in
your program is really only for your reference, because the H number will
execute the length offset.
Now if it bugs you to set
(and reset) all the tools to the top of the work, then you can set the
tools to the table, or to a reference block that is sitting on the table.
In such an instance, then you set all your tool length offsets to that
reference, each and every time. This is the preferred method.
But, this introduces one
more step, and you do make use of the G54 Z work offset for this. After
any of your tool length offsets are set to the reference, you then need
to measure the height from the reference to the top of the stock. If you
zero the display temporarily when the tool is touching the top of the
reference, then you can jog up or down as required to touch the top of
the stock. This will give you a direct measurement which will be inserted
in the G54 Z register.
Near the very start of your
program, you need to call for the machine to use the G54 work offset.
Just insert G54 into your program.
For trial, after you call
G54, then call G00 X0 Y0 and the table should move to position the tool
over the corner reference of the part. Note, in some systems, like Mach
3, G54 is the default, and you need not call G54 explicitly.
Then G43 H1 G00 Z1. should
position the tool 1" above the corner of the part. If you are cautious,
turn your rapid override down real slow, and watch the motion happen.
Or you could use G01 in place of G00 and use a slow feedrate to make sure
stuff is happening as you expect. Be ready to hit the feedhold or E stop
if you see a collision coming
You can return the machine
to home with a G53 X0 Y0 Z0 command, if Z0 is the homed position of the
Z axis. G53 is the name of the machine coordinate system. Some say that
it "cancels the work offset" but really, you are just dropping
back into the 'real' coordinate system that the machine works in. The
work offsets are just an imaginary shift of the coordinate system zero
for convenience sake.
important relationship to keep in mind is:
Height = fixture height + work height + tool height
of the work we've been discussing here involves setting offsets so that
we don't have to think about this relationship in our part program. We
can simply program relative to Work Zero (that datum in our CAD drawing)
and it all works out regardless of how high our vise sits on the table,
how thickness of the material varies, and how long the tool is.
At this point, you've got
your offsets all set, you've tried the program out "cutting air"
in slow motion. It's probably time to try it out for real. You might cut
a little more slowly on something cheap (like a block of wood) until you
build confidence, but eventually, you'll get it all right and be making
What about shortcuts? Well,
you could dispense with the edgefinder to find the X, Y work offsets and
just job to a suitable point that's "close" by eyeball but within
the material and cut the machine loose. This assumes you can do all of
the machining in one setup. If, for some reason, you need multiple setups,
then you have to be able to precisely locate the Work Zero setup on subsequent
setups or the machine won't be aligned properly and nothing will come
It is also possible that
you have a fixture that enables you to swap to the next setup while preserving
orientation to Work Zero. One can certainly imagine a fixture where you
are essentially just flipping the part upside down and registering it
with a pin or some such to cut the back side. This is something to think
about for a complex part requiring multiple setups.
for Beginners: Start Out In X,Y With A Sharpie "Cutting Tool"
A good place to get started
is 2D CNC programming with a mill. In this mode, you manually control
Z, and just run the program in X and Y. You'll have to write your program
with that in mind, but the idea is to see whether you can get your machine
to draw a circle in a particular place without going off track. You can
put the Sharpie into your keyless chuck (you do have a keyless chuck,
right? <G>) and jog it down until it makes contact with a sheet
of paper taped down on a flat surface. Jog to the point you want to use
as your Work Zero, and go from there. Experiment with your machine and
program until you can draw a circle or other simple shape exactly where
you want it. Move on to something more complex. The Mach 3 gang likes
to use a g-code program that draws a roadrunner, so check their site for
Once you have 2D programming
down, you'll be ready to tackle 3D. BTW, more than one CNC mill project
built the X and Y axes with manual machining and then used this 2D technique
to build the Z-Axis parts under CNC control. Not a bad way to bootstrap!
Tool Length Offsets & Automatic Tool Height Setting / Tool Touchsetting
What is it and why do
As we saw above, getting
all the offsets right can make writing the CNC program a lot simpler.
It just needs to keep track of where the cutter is relative to the Work
Zero datum point, which is part of the CAD drawing (the 0,0,0 origin there)
we started from. All that fussing with edgefinders and such can be a bit
of a nuisance, particularly when you get into tool length offsets, which
could be different for each and every tool. Your CNC control program (such
as Mach 3) needs to know how long each cutting tool is and in the worst
case, you'll have to go through a process of telling it every
time you change tools.
This is a tedious and time
consuming process that doesn't make a lot of sense if you can avoid it.
There are two approaches to avoiding it. First, you can use an organized
manual system of some kind to manage the problem. Second, you can use
an automated system that measures the tool length under CNC control.
Manual Tool Length Offset
The simplst manual system
involves measuring the tool length offset once for each tool (assuming
you can change them on the machine and maintain repeatability of these
offsets) and entering all of them into your control program's tool table.
A height gage and surface plate will greatly facilitate this operation,
as will a rack that lets you keep track of which is which:
Tools organized by their Tool Table entry in Mach
3. The offsets were pre-set and entered into the table...
Then again maybe you can fill that tool table! Geez
those toolholders must have cost a pretty penny...
Mach 3 supports up to 253
entries in its tool table, so you'll likely go broke purchasing tool holders
before you run out of slots in Mach! It certainly pays to keep your most
common tooling in the table at the very least. For example, you might
Large Carbide Insert Facing Mill
Large Carbide Insert Roughing Mill
Big "Corncob" Rougher
3" Fly Cutter
1/2" Roughing End Mill (2 and 4 flute)
1/2" Finishing End Mill (2 and 4 flute)
3/8" Finishing End Mill (2 and 4 flute)
1/8" Finishing End Mill (2 and 4 flute)
1/16" Finishing End Mill
Drill Chuck w/ Bit (How many common hole
sizes do you need? Should you standardize your shop on just a few
hardware sizes? You'll want a chuck for each one. You may need the
hole size for tapping, for clearance, and probably a counterbore
Drill Chuck w/ Center or Spot Drill
Deburr or Chamfer Tool
Special purpose cutters: Dovetail mills,
keyway cutters, slitting saws, etc.
Given the flexibility of
CNC to do things like interpolating holes with smaller end mills, a surprisingly
small collection will cover a lot of ground. You can always tee up a few
special purpose cutters if you need them for a job.
Assuming you have this level
of organization, you can even write your CNC program so that the operator
can see which tool to pop in (by a # that is also on the tool rack). He
pops it in, pushes the button to go, and the program knows exactly which
tool entry to select and move on with. Having available a power drawbar
or quickchange tooling system can make this go surprisingly quickly on
machines that don't have an automatic toolchanger.
You are going to need to
make sure you can re-register a tool in its holder to exactly the same
offset each time you insert it. This probably means the tool holder needs
a shoulder of some kind that registers on the spindle nose. If you are
running R8 or MT tooling, take care that you don't assume the collet or
R8/MT shank will always tighten to the same position as the drawbar pulls
it in--it won't unless there is a shoulder to reference the tool to the
Fixed Offset Tooling
The next level of sophistication
for this problem involves creating a system whereby every tool is set
to the same length. Companies like Tormach
sell these kinds of tooling systems, or you could consider building such
tooling yourself. Tormach's is based on an ER collet system. You need
a separate Tormach tool with collet for each cutter, and they also offer
It seems to me that given
a surface plate and height gage, you might do something similar to Tormach's
system with normal mill holders. At the least you might segregate your
tools into standard length offsets. Again, you need a way to reliably
reference the holder to the spindle nose without relying on consistent
pull-in by the drawbar. The latter will not be repeatable!
Automatic Tool Length
The peak of sophistication
is a mechanism whereby tool offsets are automatically determined by having
the tool contact a switch or close a circuit at a fixed location on the
table. If every tool is measured against the same device, they will all
be in the same position relative to one another once the tool offset is
applied. At this point, you would then be able to apply multiple tools
against the workpiece using only a Work Zero touch off, which can save
a lot of time and effort on a CNC job.
If you don't have automatic
tool height setting, you'll need a manual mechanism to deal with the problem.
Some use a gage block and just eyeball it, and there are also various
arrangements using dial indicators and the like. You can do a touch off
with cigarette paper in classic fashion. You can also create or buy a
tooling system where all of the cutters are precision set to a particular
height, such as the one sold by Tormach. If you've got a surface plate
and height gage, this is very easy to do for yourself, and a lot of pro
shops have the Tool Crib doing this work so that when a tool is checked
out it comes with a slip that tells the proper tool offset. Lastly, there
are a variety of switches that light an LED (ala LED edgefinders) also
Many professional CNC shops
also use this method to allow for insert wear, and to stop a continuous
production job if an insert breaks. In this mode, the toolsetter captures
the initial offset, and if it varies by more than the amount of wear expected
(usually less than 0.005"), the insert is assumed to have broken
and the program is halted until an operator can look at it.
What Kind of Sensor Can
The switch used can take
a lot of formats. I have heard of one fellow who closed a circuit between
the QCTP and the chuck on his lathe. This method of just letting contact
do the job of closing a circuit works pretty well, and is certainly easy
enough to build. A CNC touch plate is a device that can be dropped atop
the workpiece. It is of known thickness, and has a contact with the spindle,
and hence the end mill. The Z-Axis lowers until the circuit is completed,
at which point the cutter is a known height above Work Zero (i.e. the
thickness of the touch plate). The plate is simply a metal plate with
a wire that is backed with some sort of insulating material such as Delrin.
The Delrin insulates the connection from the workpiece, which presumably
would otherwise have a closed circuit through the frame of the machine
and all the way back to the spindle.
Insulation is not neccesary for a touch plate that
sits on wood workpieces!
Here is a switch mounted
off to the side that finds a zero for the top of the spoil board (the
table) of a router setup:
Touchsetter relatively to table zero on a router--top
Another homebrew touchsetter switch. This one is
A commerical Blum Nano touchsetter...
If you want
to build a probe that works along the principles of commercial devices,
Indoor Flyer has
an excellent article on one. It's intended for digitizing, but could be
used for this purpose as well. Why not make 2 so you have one for each
If you want
to buy a probe, try IMServices.
The reviews I've heard on their probes have been great!
probe for touchsetting (top) and scanning (bottom)...
How about using
an optical limit switch? Industrial Hobbies used to sell these, but now
only offer them as part of their CNC kit. I've
been working on a design for one. They're pretty simple:
limit switch could be made into a touchsetter switch...
After I determine
how accurate my design is in the limit switch application, it wouldn't
be hard to re-engineer it for this application where it could be mounted
vertically near the home position. The neat thing about the optical limit
is the contact closure is completely "soft" as a flag blocks
the beam of light to the sensor. As such, over travel is easy to arrange
so you can slam into the limit pretty fast, apply minimal back pressure
to your cutting tool, and if the axis has a bit of over travel before
the switch cuts in, you haven't ruined anything.
Freimaniss (Mr Gecko Drive) had an interesting suggestion for those into
How about a probe
rod attached directly (superglued) to a pizeoelectric crystal? Any contact
would generate an easy to detect voltage. Take apart a clicker type butane
lighter and attach a voltmeter to the wires; it takes the faintest pressure
on the crystal to generate a voltage. Nothing moves so the contact/no-contact
point hysterisis is negligable.
mentioned the availability of small "bimorph" piezoelectric devices to
be used as Mariss suggests. He says they put out 4v with 10 micrometers
of deflection. That's pretty darned sensitive! Not sure this sensor is
ideal for this application, however. It is simple, but the problem is
it only sends a brief signal at the point of contact and then stops signalling.
It might be necessary to "latch" that signal in some way. Anyway,
mechanical switches are cheap and easy.
Setting up Mach 3 for
Touchsetting: Basic Script
Okay, let's take a look
at the software component of creating an automatic touchsetter for use
with Mach 3 on a mill.
First, you need a sensor,
which we covered just above. Next, you'll need a macro to position the
tool over the sensor and drive down in the Z-axis until contact is made,
at which point the Z-position may be used to calculate an appropriate
going to a lot of trouble to write a custom macro for this purpose, be
sure to experiment with the "Set Tool Offset" command on the
control panel. This is the manual approach to setting these offsets, and
you'll want to be comfortable that your automated approach does something
similar without as much manual intervention from you. Basically, you just
touch-off the tool, enter any additional offset in the DRO next to the
button, and click the button. For example, if you touch down on a gage
block, enter the thickness of the block in the additional offset DRO.
You want to be very comfortable with all the offsets available in Mach
3 before tackling this job!
On the sensor, you need
to tell Mach 3 what input pin to use as a probe sensor contact. Use the
"Input Pins" dialog to do this. From what I can read in my travels,
a Z-axis feed rate on the order of 10"/minute is slow enough to work
well without damaging the tool or the sensor.
Now about those Mach 3 macros.
Here are some samples, use at your own risk until I get my own written
(my own comments are after the "//", ignore those!):
code "g31 z-10
code "G92 Z0"
// Retract Z, set
feedrate of 10"/min
// Wait for the
move to finish
// Zero the Z-Axis
// Move to Z 3"
// Try moving down
until the probe touches
// Zero the Z-Axis
DRO again after the probe touches
Again, ignore everything
from "//" on, inclusive, those are my notes about what is happening
and don't go into the macro. Now you need to determine exactly what it
is that's being zeroed. Do you want to just find the tool offset? If so,
you probably want to measure from the table height or some fixed position.
Do you want work zero as the top of the workpiece? If so, you want something
that sits atop the workpiece and is repeatable. Either way the macro shown
above has no provision to deal with any offset between Z0 and the thickness
of the switch or other calculations you may want to do to get exactly
the offset you are looking for.
Here is another sample macro
(written for the router switch shown above) with my "//" comments
(as usual, they'd have to be removed before use):
code "g0 x10 y1"
code "g0 z-30"
code "g31 z-3 f20"
call SetDRO( 2, .125
"G0 Z2.5 F60"
Wend end iF
// Check whether
a probe input is defined
// Move to the
location of the touchsetter switch: X=10", Y=1"
// Raise Z 30"
// Start moving
Z down at 20"/min after dropping Z 3".
// G31 is Mach3's
"straight down probe" function.
// Move until
the contact closes...
// Set DRO2, the Z,
to the thickness oF the touch plate code
// g-code to quickly
go up 2.5” to get out of the way (is 2.5" enough?)
// do nothing while
the motor is moving up
Again, I'm not endorsing
these macros, just trying to understand them before working on my own
version. Here is another sample that is a bit more complex than the first
if IsSuchSignal (22) Then
Fixture_Num = GetOEMDRO(46)
Call SetOEMDRO (46, 202)
Code "G00 G53 Z00."
'Code "G53 X0. Y0." 'Move into Probe Pos ***EDIT HERE***
Tool_Number = GetDRO(24)
code "G91 g31 z-4. f10"
If Tool_Number = 0 Then
z = GetOEMDRO(85)
Else Call SetDRO(24,0)
Height = GetDRO(2)
code "G91 G0 Z0.25"
While IsMoving() Wend end if
// Check whether
a probe input is defined
// Set to fixture
// Height to move
into probe pos
// Needs editing
for use, but how?
// Move Z to -4"
// Wait for move
0 means master tool Cal
// Get Machine
// Set fixture
// Turn off the
tool offset by loading tool #0
// Get the pos
of the Z axis without the Tool comp on
// 'Turn the tool
Back on so the offset will go to the
// Set the Tool
// Set the Fixture
back to what it was
This macro is designed with
the idea that all of the tool offsets are relative to the offset of a
master tool, which is tool 0. Hmmm, this guy went to a lot of trouble
to do that, but I don't yet understand why. Perhaps he establishes Work
Zero with tool 0 and then keeps the other offsets relative to that. The
answer is probably obvious, but I'm not there yet.
And yet another, even more
elaborate macro from the Mach 3 support forum. It is interesting in that
it simply keeps track of the difference between the current tool and the
newly inserted tool rather than bothering with the tool table. It also
shows how to prompt the operator to insert the new tool:
ChX = GetUserDRO( 1200 )
ChY = GetUserDRO( 1201 )
ChZ = GetUserDRO( 1202 )
Code "G53 G00 Z-1"
ZOld = Getdro(2)
Code "G53 G00 X" & ChX & "Y" & ChY 'Move to the probe position
Code "G31 Z-230 F450"
Old = GetVar(2002)
Code "G53 G00 Z-1"
Code "G53 G00 X65 Y-200"
MsgBox ("Insert the new tool")
Code "G53 G00 X" & ChX & "Y" & ChY
Code "G31 Z-230 F450"
HitNew = GetVar(2002)
Diff = HitOld - HitNew
If DiffABS=0 Then End
If HitOld < HitNew Then
ZNew = ZOld - DiffABS :A=1
If HitOld > HitNew Then
ZNew = ZOld + DiffABS :A=2
Code "G53 G00 Z-1"
// Get X, Y, Z where the touchsetter probe is located from
user defined DRO's..
// Move the tool all the way up = 1" above Work Zero
// Record this Z-position after the move up. Should change
to an OEM DRO, which?
// Move to the touchsetter X, Y position
// Move down in Z until we hit the probe. That F450 looks
too fast! Is it metric?
// Get the position where the probe hit on the old tool
// Z move all way up
// Move to change tool position
// Tell the operator to insert the new tool
// Move to the probe position
// Z move down untill hit, F too fast? Metric?
// Get the Position that the Probe hit at on the new tool
// Offset difference in the two tools
// Absolute difference
// If no difference, don't bother
// If new tool is longer, calculate new Z DRO setting by
// If new tool is shorter, calculate by adding
// Select new coordinate system and move Z -1"
// Set Z to the new value, adjusted by tool length
Everyone says this works
great, but I wish it would use the real tool length offsets as intended
by the g-code language. Also, it makes use of a lot of deprecated functions
that are being discouraged in Mach 3. Note also that it is likely working
in metric, so the specified feedrate is not 450 inches/minute but rather
450 mm/minute, which is about 18"/minute, much safer! You will need
to deal with that difference on your system. As I write this, the macro
works reliably for some, but not others. Still searching for nirvana!
Setting Up Mach 3 for
Touchsetting: Interface Niceties...
Okay, let's say we have
the basic script up and running. How do we access it from within our g-code
part program so that we can set the tool length offsets either at the
beginning of the program, or in a program that let's you go through your
whole rack and set up the table, or for some other application such as
after each tool change?
One easy approach is to
make use of Mach's capacity to create custom M-codes. Let's say you wanted
to trigger your macro with an M450. Simply place the following at the
top of the macro:
SetTriggerMacro (450) would set it to M450
That's pretty cool. We've
just added our own canned cycle to Mach to set the tool height!
I Wish I Could Say This
Is All Done And Easy, But...
Despite all the research,
I still do not have a definitive macro and touchsetter design that is
confirmed working. I have a lot of "almost there" prototypes
where an individual got it to work well enough and moved on. It's a pity,
but that will give me some challenge working out the bugs when it comes
time to build my own!
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